Mohammed’s journey of survival and hope

In the streets of Sfax, a bustling Tunisian city perched by the Mediterranean, Mohammed is one of thousands of foreigners who view this location as a ticket to Europe. Dreaming of a better future in a richer nation, the Sierra Leone national shares his story, which includes a previous failed attempt to cross the Mediterranean and the hurtful experience of racism.

 

By Méline Laffabry (edited by Rogerio Simoes)

“First of all, my name is Mohammed Jawara. I’m from West Africa, Sierra Leone. I’m 36 years old. I left Sierra Leone in 2019  because of the country’s conditions. Things are hard there. That’s why I decided to come back to this. Because I’ve been in this world before.”

This world, as Mohammed calls it, is the world of exile. He recounts his initial attempt to reach Europe via Libya in 2017 and 2018, a venture that ended in disappointment and forced him back to Sierra Leone.

In 2019, he decided to go on the road again. He shows us a map on his phone: “I left Sierra Leone for Guinea-Conakry. This is my hometown, Kabbalah. So from there, I moved, to come to this side, Farana.  Between Kabbalah  and Farana there are many villages, so it’s not too difficult to cross on that side. But you know, each country has its own police checkpoint. When you come to the border to enter Guinea, you meet the Sierra Leone checkpoint and then the Guinea checkpoint on the other side of the border. When you pass this last one, you enter Guinea.”

Mohammed mainly travelled alone,  but sometimes had to join a group. “To enter Mali, we were more than 15 people. From Guinea, Sierra Leone, Liberia, all of us trying to enter Mali. We also had children with us, two-year-olds and six-month-old babies.” He emphasises the difficulty of crossing into Mali from Guinea due to stringent border controls, stating “You know, when you’re facing that border, everybody’s trying to survive because to enter Mali from Guinea is not easy. The border is too tight.” He explains that bribes are necessary to cross. “Whatever checkpoint you pass by on that highway, you pay money before you pass.” The ones who cannot pay  have to “sneak inside” Mali on their own, which is far more challenging.

“You spend three days in the Sahara desert in the back of a pickup van. That’s where people are dying. We were 36 in the back of the van. If you fall down, they will leave you. The driver will never stop.”

Venturing into the north of the continent, particularly in attempting to enter Algeria, proves perilous for migrants like Mohammed. “From Timbuktu [Mali] to Algeria, that’s the longest distance and it’s the scariest one,” Mohammed  says. “If you have money, you can take a car. You spend three days in the Sahara desert in the back of a pickup van. That’s where people are dying. We were 36 in the back of the van. If you fall down, they will leave you. The driver will never stop.” Surviving this treacherous journey only leads to further challenges at the North African borders. Mohammed describes encountering armed groups: “There are some Arab  lads. We don’t know who they are. They have their guns, they have their own government. Those are the guys who are killing people there, they are beating people and taking everything they have.”

Having spent six months in Algeria, Mohammed sheds light on the harsh realities faced by migrants in  that country. “I was working in a construction company. Sometimes our boss would not pay us, he would owe us more than three months of salary. That’s why people leave and go to Morocco or Libya.” Financial insecurity is compounded by the spectre of racism, as Mohammed explains: “If the Algerian government says they will deport blacks, no matter where you are living, they will come for you. They will raid any place where black migrants live. Through that process, some people die. Some people jump from skyscrapers to escape. They bit us and then deported us to the Nigerian border. They leave you in the Sahara desert between Niger and Algeria.” 

He claims to have also faced racism from local residents.  “In the street, when they see us, some people use their clothes to block their nose. But I believe that I’m taking good care of myself. We are not smelling, you know. But racism, it’s not easy. I love my colour. I love this colour and I’m proud of myself.”

Reflecting on the broader picture of migration in North Africa, Mohammed paints a grim portrait of desperation and survival. “I don’t know about the coming years, but for now, people are suffering to enter this side. Between these borders, starting from Mali to Algeria to Tunisia, people are suffering. In fact, people are dying in the desert. It’s a game of chance. Everybody is fighting for himself. You can only trust your loved ones or your friends. You guys will fight together. That’s how the road works. Until today in Tunisia, that’s how we survive.” 

Navigating the streets of Sfax, a bustling Tunisian city perched by the Mediterranean, proves to be a daunting challenge for Mohammed and thousands of others who view it as a launching pad towards Europe. “We are thousands. People are begging in the streets, there is no work here. Some people are nice and give us some food. We want to leave but without money there is no way… I want to go to France and build a life there.” Mohammed shares, yearning for a better future across the seas. Despite the uncertainty looming over him,  he remains steadfast in his resolve. “Inshallah. And I know I will do it. I know I will do it. I’m just waiting for my time.“

This article is part of the special series “Tunisia – Land of Passage”, produced by Specto Media and aidóni. Listen to the podcast here.

 

This multimedia series is produced by Specto Média.
Author: Eléonore Plé
Investigation and production: Eléonore Plé
Sound production: Norma Suzanne
Graphic identity: Amandine Beghoul and Baptiste Cazaubon
French version dubbing: Yamane Mousli
English version dubbing: Isobel Coen and Julian Cola
Editing: Hugo Sterchi and Norma Suzanne
Recording studio: Radio M’S

To discover the series in French, visit Specto Media


 

This multimedia series is produced in collaboration with aidóni for translation, and producing the articles and profiles. To discover the series in English, visit aidóni.

 

The perils faced by migrants in the shadows of Kasserine

“Come my friend. Come rest” – a seemingly inviting call, resonating with warmth and reassurance, yet concealing a dark truth. This friendly-sounding phrase was overheard by our journalist, Eléonore Plé, during the summer of 2023. The dangers particularly affecting sub-Saharan African people in exile reveal themselves on the tracks of the train line that winds its way from Algeria to Tunisia in the Tunisian Kasserine region,  where men wait for migrants who’ve just crossed the border.

By Méline Laffabry (edited by Şebnem Adıyaman)

When migrants reach Kasserine, they embark on the final leg of a journey often spanning several years. Many of them recount the warm welcome extended to them by a portion of the local population.  Journalist Eléonore Plé witnessed around 20  residents emerging from their homes and rushing towards migrant groups to provide them with food, water, and shoes. However, things do not always go as smoothly.

For those who answer the call of the men along the railway, reality proves to be far from welcoming. Our journalist vividly recalls a tense atmosphere during her observation. While she was on the side of the rails in the dark of the night, she noticed that the men waiting for the migrants kept looking at her, suggesting that her presence was causing discomfort or agitation.

Plé spoke with three migrants aged 18, 25, and 30, who had fallen victim to the threats of this spot. Recounting their harrowing experiences, one described a vicious attack by ten assailants armed with machetes and slingshots. “Ten of them came and attacked us. My friend was badly hurt, bleeding from the head, and they took everything we had. We tried to fight back but they were too many and had machetes and slingshots”. Such assaults on migrants, especially those from sub-Saharan regions, have become alarmingly frequent in Tunisia.

From poverty to dream

Kasserine is a governorate (or province) located in central-western Tunisia. It is known for its strategic location, as it serves as a gateway between Tunisia and Algeria. The region is characterised by its rugged terrain, with mountainous landscapes and valleys, making it both picturesque and challenging to traverse.

Economically, Kasserine has faced significant challenges, with high levels of unemployment and poverty affecting its population. This economic hardship has contributed to social tensions and created an environment where illegal activities such as smuggling can thrive as means of survival for some individuals.

Moreover, Kasserine’s strategic location has made it a crucial transit point for migrants and refugees. Less than 300 km away from Sfax, where migrants embark on boats to reach Europe, the region serves as a gateway for individuals wanting to cross the Mediterranean, adding layers of  risks, dreams, and desperation to its already intricate socio-economic fabric.

In February 2023, Tunisian President Kaïs Saïed made controversial remarks suggesting a conspiracy involving migrants from sub-Saharan Africa. He insinuated that their influx aimed to alter Tunisia’s demographic landscape and undermine its Arab-Islamic identity. “There exists a criminal plan to change the demographic composition of Tunisia, and certain individuals have received large sums of money to grant residence to sub-Saharan migrants,” stated the head of state, as quoted in a presidential communiqué.

“This discourse has exacerbated a wave of violence (…) from Tunisian citizens who have violently attacked black migrants, and it has also sparked waves of arbitrary arrests,” explained Salsabil Chellali, director of the Human Rights Watch office in Tunis, in an interview with the French daily Le Monde. These statements sparked outrage both domestically and internationally, escalating racially-charged tensions and triggering violent acts against black migrants. Human rights organisations condemned the inflammatory rhetoric, highlighting its role in stoking xenophobia and violence. Saïed’s remarks underscored the challenges of migration and identity facing Tunisia, while also prompting broader discussions on racism and discrimination within the country.

Perfect conditions for exploitation

These circumstances have facilitated the emergence of a scheme to exploit the journey of individuals in exile. Some local inhabitants take advantage of migrants arriving in the region by tracing their path along the rails from Algeria. Under the guise of hospitality, the men awaiting the migrants present themselves as friendly locals offering assistance with the inviting phrase, “Come my friend. Come rest.” with the aim of luring them aside in order to strip them of their belongings.

Plé’s investigative efforts extended over a three-week period in Tunisia, where she meticulously traced the path migrants take upon entering the country until their departure by sea. Throughout her inquiry, she gathered and verified numerous testimonies from migrants who had been attacked in the Kasserine region, shedding further light on the perilous conditions faced by those on this arduous journey.


This article is part of a the multimedia series “Tunisia, land of Passage”, a project in collaboration with Specto Média. Each Tuesday, during six weeks, we will publish a podcast episode, a contextualisation article, a profile and an infography.

Listen to episode 1 below or click here.

This article is part of the special series “Tunisia – Land of Passage”, produced by Specto Media and aidóni. Listen to the podcast here.

This multimedia series is produced by Specto Média.
Author: Eléonore Plé
Investigation and production: Eléonore Plé
Sound production: Norma Suzanne
Graphic identity: Amandine Beghoul and Baptiste Cazaubon
French version dubbing: Yamane Mousli
English version dubbing: Isobel Coen and Julian Cola
Editing: Hugo Sterchi and Norma Suzanne
Recording studio: Radio M’S

To discover the series in French, visit Specto Media

This multimedia series is produced by Specto Média.
Author: Eléonore Plé
Investigation and production: Eléonore Plé
Sound production: Norma Suzanne
Graphic identity: Amandine Beghoul and Baptiste Cazaubon
French version dubbing: Yamane Mousli
English version dubbing: Isobel Coen and Julian Cola
Editing: Hugo Sterchi and Norma Suzanne
Recording studio: Radio M’S

To discover the series in French, visit Specto Media